Guinness was very much an acquired taste for Evan McHugh, an Australian raised on Vegemite, but set out to acquire it he did with his travelling companion Twidkiwodm (the-woman-he-didn't-know-he-would-one-day-marry). As they hitch around Ireland, Evan meets unforgettable characters. He goes rowing with a German bagpiper on the lakes of Killarney, windsurfing with a one-armed man in Dingle, survives an encounter with poteen and even finds his own bar, but everywhere the locals tell him that the best Guinness is brewed somewhere else. So does he ever find the perfect pot of black gold?