Introduction ix PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION Chapter 1 The Natural World Geography, Climate, Mammals, Reptiles, Birds Chapter 2 Background Information History, Government and politics, Economy, Population, Language, Religion, Education, Music Chapter 3 Practical Information When to visit, Suggested itineraries, Tour operators, Tourist information, Red tape, Getting there and away, What to take, Money, Budgeting, Getting around, Accommodation, Eating and drinking, Public holidays and festival days, Shopping, Nightlife, Media and communications, Local interaction, Responsible tourism, Ethiopian charities, Safety, Women travellers, Gay and lesbian travellers Chapter 4 Health Preparations, Medical problems, Other safety concerns PART TWO ADDIS ABABA AND SURROUNDS Chapter 5 Addis Ababa History, Getting there and away, Orientation, Maps, Getting around, Where to stay, Where to eat and drink, Nightlife, Cinema, Shopping, Other practicalities, What to see and do Chapter 6 Around Addis Ababa East towards Bishoftu and Adama, South towards Butajira and Hosanna, West towards Ambo and Mount Wenchi, North towards Debre Libanos and the Blue Nile Gorge PART THREE NORTHERN ETHIOPIA Chapter 7 Western Amhara Dejen to Bahir Dar, Bahir Dar, Monasteries of southern Lake Tana, Bahir Dar to Gondar by road, Gorgora and northern Lake Tana, Gondar, Debark, Simien Mountains National Park Chapter 8 Eastern Amhara Addis Ababa to Dessie via Debre Berhan, Addis Ababa to Dessie/Lalibela via Dejen, Kombolcha, Dessie and surrounds, Weldiya, The 'China Road', Lalibela, Around Lalibela, Sekota Chapter 9 Tigrai Shire Inda Selassie, Axum, Adwa and surrounds, Abiy Addi and the Tembien, Adigrat, Rock-hewn churches between Adigrat and Wukro, Wukro and surrounds, Hawzen and the Gheralta Escarpment, Mekele, Southward from Mekele to Weldiya PART FOUR EASTERN ETHIOPIA Chapter 10 Afar Awash National Park, The Djibouti road, Danakil Chapter 11 Harar and the Far East The road to Harar and Dire Dawa, Dire Dawa, Harar, Jijiga PART FIVE SOUTHERN ETHIOPIA Chapter 12 Bale and the Southeast Towards Bale Mountains, Bale Mountains and surrounds, Southeastern birding route, South towards Moyale Chapter 13 The Southern Rift Valley Lakes Ziway, Lakes Langano, Abijatta and Shalla, Lephis Forest, Shashemene, Hawassa, Sodo, Arba Minch and surrounds Chapter 14 Konso and South Omo Travel practicalities, Karat-Konso, Along the Konso-Jinka road, Jinka, Hamer country: Dimeka, Turmi and Arbore, Omorate and the Omo River Chapter 15 Southwest Ethiopia The Western Highlands, Gambella region, Benishangul-Gumuz region Appendix 1 Language Appendix 2 Glossary Appendix 3 Key historical and legendary fi gures in Ethiopia Appendix 4 Some Ethiopian transcriptions of place names Appendix 5 Further information Index Index of advertisers