Introduction vii PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 4, Natural history and conservation 5, History 8, Government and politics 11, Economy 11, People 12, Language 12, Religion 13, Education 14, Culture 14 Chapter 2 Practical Information 18 When to visit 18, Highlights 18, Suggested itineraries 19, Tour operators 20, Tourist information 21, Red tape 22, Embassies 23, Getting there and away 24, Health 27, Security and safety 28, What to take 30, Money 30, Budgeting 31, Getting around 31, Accommodation 33, Eating and drinking 35, Public holidays and festivals 38, Shopping 41, Arts and entertainment 42, Outdoor pursuits 42, Media and communications 46, Business 48, Cultural etiquette 49, Travelling positively 49 PART TWO THE GUIDE 51 Chapter 3 Pula and Southern Istria 53 Pula 53, South from Pula 65, North from Pula 66, Brijuni Islands 68 Chapter 4 Rovinj 71 History 71, Getting there and away 73, Getting around 73, Tourist information 75, Where to stay 75, Where to eat and drink 77, Entertainment and nightlife 78, Shopping 79, Other practicalities 79, What to see and do 79, Activities 81 Chapter 5 Poree and the Northwest Coast 83 Poree 83, Novigrad 94, Umag 96, Savudrija 98, Buje 98, South to Limski kanal 99 Chapter 6 Opatija and the East Coast 101 Opatija 101, Lovran 105, Labin 108, South to Pula 110 Chapter 7 Inland Istria 113 Pazin 113, Around Pazin 120, South to Pula 122, Motovun 123, Around Motovun 125, Gronjan 127, Buzet 129, Around Buzet 132 Chapter 8 Rijeka 137 History 137, Getting there and away 138, Getting around 138, Tourist information 139, Where to stay 139, Where to eat and drink 140, Entertainment and nightlife 141, Shopping 142, Other practicalities 143, What to see and do 143 Chapter 9 The Slovenian Adriatic 147 History 147, Getting there and around 149, Tourist information 150, Koper 150, Izola 154, Piran 158, Portoroz 162, Postojna 164 PART THREE ACTIVITIES 169 Chapter 10 Hiking in Istria 170 Maps 170, Footwear and clothing 170, Trail markings 171, Huts and camping 171, Water 171, Lovran to Vojak (Ueka) 171, Raspadalica and Kuk 173, Pazinska jama 175, Pazin Waterfalls 175, Rt Kamenjak 177 Chapter 11 Biking in Istria 179 Bike rental, service and parts 179, Routes and maps 179, Groznjan to Livade on the Parenzana 180, Coast to the Mirna River and the Parenzana 182, Decumanus Maximus Agri 183, Mali Sv Angelo Observatory to the Limski kanal 184 Chapter 12 Diving in Istria 186 Planning the dive 186, Events 190, Diving centres 191, HMS Coriolanus 193, Koversada wall 194, Baron Gautsch 194, Banjole Spilja Cave 195, Rt Peneda, Brijuni National Park 196, Fraskeriae Island 197, Nikolai's Cavern 197, Brsee Pinnacle 198 Appendix 1 Language 199 Appendix 2 Marinas and Sailing Clubs 207 Appendix 3 Further Information 210 Index 213 Index of advertisers 216
