The capital of the West Coast, a sprawling desert megalopolis that's home to more stars than the sky at night, Los Angeles continues to enthral all those who visit it. The sun-soaked beaches, celebrity-studded restaurants and general Hollywood glitz continue to draw tourists, of course. But the colonisation of neighbourhoods such as Silver Lake and Echo Park, and the ongoing revival of Downtown LA (including the recent opening of Frank Gehry's Walt Disney Concert Hall), have both lent fresh impetus to this immense, unknowable city, perhaps the most fascinating in the US.