In 1983, Ma Jian turned 30. He was overwhelmed by a desire to escape the confines of his life in Beijing. China was changing, Deng Xiapoing was introducing economic change but was clamping down on Spiritual Pollution. Ma Jian, with his long hair, denim jeans and artistic friends, was under surveillance from his work unit and the police. His ex-wife was seeking custody of their daughter; his girlfreind was sleeping with another man; and he could no longer find the inspiration to write or paint. So Ma Jian bought a train ticket to the westernmost border of China and set off in search of himself. His journey lasted three years and took him to deserts, overpopulated cities, from scenes of barbarity to havens of tranquility and beauty. This account of his journey provides an insight into the teeming contradictions that make up China.