As a culture, the English are familiar with images of Ireland and Irishness. From the romantic to the gritty, from Dublin as a cheap and cheerful weekend getaway to the Irish theme pubs on almost every English high street, no-one can escape the fact that Irish culture is perhaps more popular than ever. Mark McCrum explores the heart of contemporary Ireland, gaining an impression of its culture and politics through meeting its people. Starting in Dublin and roaming south and around the coast before turning northwards and completing his trek at the ruin of the old McCrum family seat, on the way attending the Puck Fair, going to a beach where bones from victims of the Potato Famine lie unburied, meeting the Travelling Folk; all the while experiencing the mix of good conversation, good company, a little Guinness and a lot of fun -- colloquially known as the Craic -- as he comes to an understanding of the country and its inhabitants.