In 1924, George Mallory and his companion Andrew Irvine disappeared during a valiant bid to reach the world s highest summit. In May 1999 Mallory s body was found, partly resolving the riddle of whether they succeeded in their bid, 29 years ahead of Hillary and Tenzing.

Peter and Leni Gillman assess the motives and goals of this inspirational yet complex figure, whose life was dominated by his two conflicting passions: his love for his wife Ruth, and Everest forbidding, unclimbed, the wildest dream , as he called it. Drawing on family letters and helped by surviving members of the family, Peter and Leni Gillman present a powerful and affecting portrait of a man torn between competing desires, and the fatal choice he ultimately made.