List of Figures Notes on Contributors Foreword - Maija Pekkanen (Costume Designer, Finland) Foreword - Simona Rybakova (Costume Designer, Czech Republic) Acknowledgements Introduction: Activating Costume: A New Approach to Costume for Performance - Sofia Pantouvaki (Aalto University, Finland) and Peter McNeil (University of Technology Sydney, Australia) Section 1: Interpreting and Curating Costume 1.1 Real or Virtual?: Studying Historical Costume Drawings and Sketches - Margaret Mitchell (University of the Incarnate Word in San Antonio, Texas, USA) 1.2 Cooking: Studying Film Costume Design - Drake Stutesman (Barrymore Film Center, Fort Lee, USA) 1.3 Displaying Stage Costumes: Exhibitions at the National Centre for Stage Costume, France - Delphine Pinasa (Centre National de Costume de Scene, France) Snapshots 1.4. Cross Cultural Costume Research: Beijing Opera Costumes - Alexandra B. Bonds (University of Oregon, USA) 1.5. Reading Maltese Carnival Costumes - Vicki Ann Cremona (University of Malta) 1.6. Curating Costume - Reflection - Aoife Monks (Queen Mary, University of London, UK) Section 2: Personalities in Costume 2.1. Costume Centre Stage: Re-Membering Ellen Terry (1847-1928) - Veronica Isaac (university lecturer and freelance consultant, UK) 2.2. 'On and Off the Stage': Costume, Dress, and Locating the Actor-Manager's Identity, 1870-1900 - Helen Margaret Walter (Plymouth University and the University for the Creative Arts, Epsom, UK) 2.3. Extravagance, Expense and Notoriety: Gaby Deslys' French Costumes in America, 1911-14 - Emily Brayshaw (University of Technology Sydney (UTS), Australia) Snapshots 2.4. A Foreign Affair On and Off Screen - Christina M. Johnson (FIDM Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, Los Angeles, USA) 2.5. Recording Costume Design in the Theatre and Performance Collections at the V&A: Vivien Leigh and Oliver Messel - Keith Lodwick (Victoria and Albert Museum, UK) Section 3: Costume Voices, Costume Histories 3.1. The First Premiere and Other Stories: Towards a History of the Costume Design Profession in Finland - Joanna Weckman (independent post-doctoral costume researcher, exhibition curator, lecturer and costume designer, Finland) 3.2. Spinning Yarns: Locating, Learning and Listening in the Social World of Popular Hindi Film Costume Production - Clare M. Wilkinson (Washington State University, USA) Snapshots 3.3. Hollywood Costume: A Journey to Curation - Deborah Nadoolman Landis (UCLA David C. Copley Center for Costume Design, USA) 3.4. 'The Getting of Wisdom': Learning from Anna Senior - Jennifer Gall (National Film and Sound Archive of Australia) 3.5. Design for TV: Costume and Contemporary Clothing - Chrisi Karvonides-Dushenko (costume designer in theatre, film and television, USA) Section 4: Costume and the Body 4.1. The Body as the Matter of Costume: a Phenomenological Practice - Donatella Barbieri (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK) 4.2. The Body as Site: Interdisciplinary Approaches to Dress in/as Performance - Jessica Bugg (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK) 4.3. 'Aware Wearing' - a Somatic Costume Design Methodology for Performance - Sally E. Dean (interdisciplinary choreographer, performer, teacher and somatic practitioner, Europe, Asia and USA) Snapshots 4.4. Costuming the Foot: a Designer/Performer's Personal Artistic Methods - Alexandra Murray-Leslie (artist, researcher, performer and co-founder of the international art collective Chicks on Speed, Australia) 4.5. Costume and the Modernist Body: Fashioning August Strindberg - Viveka Kjellmer (University of Gothenburg, Sweden) Section 5: Costume and its Collaborative Work 5.1. Building Costumes, Building Language in the Costume Workshop - Madeline Taylor (Queensland University of Technology and University of Melbourne, Australia) 5.2. Fitting Threads: Embodied Conversations in the Costume Design Process - Suzanne Osmond (National Institute of Dramatic Art in Sydney, Australia) Snapshots 5.3. Haptic Descriptions - Costume Design by Gillian Gallow and April Viczko - Natalie Rewa (Queen's University, Canada) 5.4. The Costume Designers 'Golden List' of Competence - Christina Lindgren (Oslo National Academy of the Arts (KHiO), Norway) Section 6: Costume and Social Impact 6.1. Exploring Rossini's Berta: Young Audiences and the Agency of Opera Costume - Sofia Pantouvaki (Aalto University, Finland) 6.2. Designing Hospital Clown Costumes: Psychological and Social Benefits for Finnish Children's Healthcare - Merja Vaisanen (Aalto University, Finland) 6.3. Costume of Conflict - Mateja Fajt (independent costume designer and researcher, Slovenia) Snapshots 6.4. From Effect to Affect: the Costumed Body and the Autistic Child - Melissa Trimingham (University of Kent, UK) 6.5. 'Designing Tsunami': Costume Evolution from Documentary to Surrealist - Michiko Kitayama Skinner (University of Miami, USA) 6.6. The Collaborative Process of Costume Creation: Travesties in Sao Paulo - Fausto Viana (Sao Paulo University (USP), Brazil)
