Introduction vii PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography and climate 3, Natural history and conservation 5, History 8, Government and politics 13, Economy 13, People 14, Language 16, Religion 17, Education 18, Culture 19 Chapter 2 Practical Information 23 When to visit 23, Highlights 23, Suggested itineraries 24, Tour operators 25, Red tape 26, Embassies 28, Getting there and away 29, Health 32, Safety 40, Women travellers 40, Gay travellers 41, Disabled travellers 41, Travelling with kids 41, What to take 41, Money 42, Budgeting 43, Getting around 43, Accommodation 48, Eating and drinking 49, Public holidays 51, Shopping 51, Photography 52, Media and communications 53, Business 55, Buying property 55, Cultural etiquette 56, Travelling positively 57 PART TWO THE GUIDE 59 Chapter 3 Dushanbe and Environs 61 History 61, Getting there and away 63, Getting around 65, Tourist information 66, Local tour operators 67, Where to stay 67, Where to eat and drink 70, Entertainment 74, Shopping 76, Sports/fitness 78, Other practicalities 78, What to see and do 81, Around Dushanbe 85 Chapter 4 Karotegin 91 Faizabad 91, Obi Garm 92, Roghun 92, Gharm 93, Tojikobod 93, Jirgital 94, Tavildara 94 Chapter 5 Fann and Zarafshan Mountains 97 Yagnob Valley 98, Iskanderkul 101, Aini 103, Zarafshan Valley (East) 104, Zarafshan Valley (West) 105, Penjikent 106 Chapter 6 Khujand and Northern Sughd 111 Istaravshan 111, Khujand 115, Isfara 123 Chapter 7 Khatlon 125 Kurgan Teppa 125, Shahr-i Tuz 130, Kurbon Shahid 132, Kulob 133 Chapter 8 West-Central Gorno-Badakhshan 137 Qalai Khum 137, Rushon and the Bartang Valley 138, Khorog 141, Ishkashim 147, Wakhan Corridor 148 Chapter 9 Murghab Plateau 153 The Pamir Highway: Khorog to Murghab 153, Murghab 155, The Pamir Highway: Murghab to the Tajik- Kyrgyz border 160 Appendix 1 Language 163 Appendix 2 Glossary 166 Appendix 3 Further Information 168 Index 172
