Contents Introduction ix PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Ancient roads in Macedonia 5, Climate 7, Flora and fauna 7, Environmental efforts 12, History 14, Government and politics 37, Economy 39, People 40, Language 50, Religion 51, Education 55, Culture 56 Chapter 2 Practical Information 63 When to visit 63, Highlights 63, Suggested itineraries 65, Tour operators 66, Red tape 69, Embassies 70, Getting there and away 72, Maps and tourist information 78, Health 79, Security and safety 88, Women travellers 90, Gay travellers 91, Travellers with disabilities 91, Travelling with children 91, What to take 92, Money 94, Budgeting 94, Getting around 95, Accommodation 98, Eating and drinking 101, Public holidays and festivals 104, Shopping 106, Arts and entertainment 106, Outdoor pursuits 107, Photography 111, Media and communications 112, Business 115, Buying property 116, Cultural etiquette 117, Interacting with local people 117, Travelling positively 119 PART TWO THE GUIDE 121 Chapter 3 Skopje 123 History 123, Getting there and away 130, Getting around 130, Tourist information 134, Where to stay 134, Where to eat and drink 137, Entertainment and nightlife 140, Shopping 143, Other practicalities 144, What to see 144, Activities 152 Chapter 4 Outside Skopje 155 Where to eat and drink 155, Horseriding 158, Mount Vodno 158, Lake Matka and caves 159, Katlanovska Banja 163, The old stone aqueduct 165, Pantelejmon Monastery 166, Suto Orizari Roma settlement and market 166, Archaeological sites around Skopje 169 Chapter 5 Lake Ohrid and Galicica National Park 173 Ohrid 173, Outside Ohrid 192, Struga 194, Galicica National Park 198, Day trips in the area 199 Chapter 6 Pelagonia, Prespa and Pelister 207 History of the region 207, Bitola 211, Pelister National Park and ecotourism 220, Lake Prespa 225, Prilep 228, Outside Prilep 233, Krusevo 236, Demir Hisar 239 Chapter 7 Polog and Mavrovo 241 Tetovo 241, Popova Sapka ski resort and mountain range 251, Gostivar 253, Mavrovo National Park 256, Debar 258, Outside Debar 263, Kicevo 266 Chapter 8 The Northeast and Middle Vardar 269 Veles 269, Stip 275, Kocani 279, Delcevo 281, Berovo 282, Kumanovo 283, Outside Kumanovo 286, Kriva Palanka 288, Kratovo 291, Outside Kratovo 294, Sveti Nikole 296 Chapter 9 The Southern Wine Region 297 Strumica 297, Outside Strumica 307, Valandovo 312, Wines from the Tikves plains 312, Kavadarci 313, Negotino 314, Stobi 314, Demir Kapija - the Iron Gate 316, Gevgelija 317, Kozuf ski resort and mountain range 319, Lake Dojran 320 Chapter 10 A Dozen Hikes 325 Hiking clubs 326, Mountain hut system 326, 1 Vodno Cross to Matka Dam 328, 2 Marko's Tower to Treskavec Monastery 330, 3 Demir Kapija to Iberlija and Koresnica 332, 4 Oktisi to Vajtos and Vevcani 334, 5 Two Lakes view 336, 6 Rostuse and Duf Waterfall 338, 7 Jance to Galicnik (Wedding Festival) 338, 8 Biljana Waterfalls and Dolna Alilica Cave 340, 9 Titov Vrv 342, 10 Kriva Sija Waterfall 342, 11 Mount Kitka 344, 12 Brajcino to Pelister Lakes and Nizepole 345 Appendix 1 Language 347 Appendix 2 Glossary of Terms and Names 361 Appendix 3 Guide to Wines of Macedonia 363 Appendix 4 Further Information 365 Index 375
