Acknowledgments Introduction Brent Luvaas and Joanne B. Eicher Part 1: Classic Works in the Anthropology of Dress and Fashion Preface 1. The Principle of Order in Civilization as Exemplified by Changes in Fashion A.L. Kroeber 2. Customs and Beliefs: Ceremonial Alfred R. Radcliffe-Brown 3. Dress Ruth Benedict 4. Fashion Edward Sapir 5. Dress: Its Origins, Forms, and Psychology, with Special Emphasis on the Sexual Psychology A.E. Crawley Part 2: Theorizing Dress and Fashion Preface 1. Fashion -v- Anti-Fashion Ted Polhemus 2. The Social Skin Terence S. Turner 3. Clothing as Language: An Object Lesson in the Study of the Expressive Properties of Material Culture Grant McCracken 4. Definition and Classification of Dress: Implications for Analysis of Gender Roles Joanne B. Eicher & Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins 5. The Antisocial Skin: Structure, Resistance, and Modern Primitive Adornment in theUnited States Daniel Rosenblatt 6. Style and Ontology Daniel Miller Part 3: Material Culture Preface 1. The Other Half: The Material Culture of New Fibres Kaori O'Connor 2. Cloth and Clothing Jane Schneider 3. Jeanealogies: Materiality and the (Im)permanence of Relationships and Intimacy Sophie Woodward 4. Wild Silk Textiles of the Dogon of Mali: The Production, Material Efficacy, and Cultural Significance of Sheen Laurence Douny 5. Clothing sociality: Materiality and the everyday among the Kuna of Panama Margherita Margiotti Part 4: Dressing the Body in Culture Preface 1. Kalabari Cut-Thread and Pulled-Thread Cloth Tonye Victor Erekosima and Joanne B. Eicher 2. Cloth that Does Not Die: The Meaning of Cloth in Bunu Social Life Elisha Renne 3. The Political Economy of Elegance: An African Cult of Beauty Jonathan Friedman 4. The Predicament of Dress: Polyvalency and the Ironies of Cultural Identity Deborah Durham 5. Body Talk: Revelations of Self and Body in Contemporary Strip Clubs Katherine Frank Part 5: Dressing the Colony, Fashioning the Nation Preface 1. Dressing for Dinner in the Bush: Rituals of Self-Definition and British Imperial Authority Helen Callaway 2. Fashioning the Colonial Subject Jean Comaroff and John Comaroff 3. The Ao Dai Goes Global: How International Influences and Female Entrepreneurs Have Shaped Vietnam's National Costume Ann Marie Leshkowich 4. Dress for Sukses:Fashioning Femininity and Nationality in Urban Indonesia Carla Jones 5. Doing Danish Fashion: On National Identity and Design Practices of a Small Danish Fashion Company Marie Riegels Melchior Part 6: Clothing, Class, and Competing Cosmopolitanisms Preface 1. Fashion, Anti-Fashion, and Heteroglossia in Urban Senegal Deborah Heath 2. Dressed to Shine: Work, Leisure and Style in Malinda, Kenya Johanna Schoss 3. Fashionable Muslims: Notions of Self, Religion, and Society in San'a Annelies Moors 4. Landscapes of Attraction and Rejection: South Asian Aesthetics in Islamic Fashions inLondon Emma Tarlo 5. Forging Connections, Performing Distinctions: Youth, Dress and Consumption in Niger Adeline Masquelier 6. Fashionably Modest of Modestly Unfashionable? Eric Silverman Part 7: Making Global Fashion Preface 1. The Globalization of Asian Dress: Re-Orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalizing Asia? Carla Jones and Anne Marie Leshkowich 2. Haute Couture in Tehran: Two Faces of an Emerging Fashion Scene Alexandru Balasescu 3. Recasting Fashion Image Production: An Ethnographic and Practice-Based Approach to Investigating Bodies in Media Stephanie Sadre-Orafai 4. Ethnographic Entanglements: Memory and Narrative in the Global Fashion Industry Christina H. Moon 5. Making Clothes for International Markets: A Clothing Perspective on Globalization Jianhua Zhao 6. In Patagonia (Clothing): A Complicated Greenness Sharon J. Hepburn Part 8: The Afterlives of Dress and Fashion Preface 1. Other People's Clothes? The International Second-hand Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in Zambia Karen Tranberg Hansen 2. Making New Vintage Jeans in Japan: Relocating Authenticity Philomena Keet 3. Fake Brands Magdalena Craciun 4. On Cutting and Pasting: The Art and Politics of DIY Streetwear Brent Luvaas Bibliography Index
