Marching straight past the tourist restaurants and into the kitchens of modern Greece, this guide explores culinary Greece from the Semeli winery near the plain of Marathon to the grand Thessaloniki market. It covers feasting, fasting and the four seasons - from summer selections to funereal feasts. It describes the untamed pleasure of wild food - hunting for mushrooms, asparagus and horta and a Greek Banquet section explores ancient customs with a pinch of modern verve.